This is an edited version of a journal that I kept for my surprising trip to Stratford-upon-Avon this fall of 2026
Monday, 26 October 2026
Fifty years after spending four weeks in Stratford-upon-Avon with a group from Furman University where I did my undergraduate work, I have finally returned. I have been planning to do this for at least 10 years. I collected money for it at my 60th birthday party in May 2017. (I pushed it back to May because no one has time around Christmas.) Nonetheless, I had never gotten around to doing it. Some other plans or events came up that prevented it.
My finally getting here, however, went very fast. Thursday afternoon I got a phone call from a panicking Inga as I walked home after plugging our car into a charging station. Their daycare center in London had announced it was closing for three weeks until 9 November. By that evening she had booked a flight for me to Heathrow on Saturday, 17 October. Christine, recognizing her und Rubik’s desperate straits, just said, “Go! They need you.” I was very grateful for her generosity. Allowing me to disappear for three weeks is very generous.
Claudia had already planned to visit the first week in November, so that week was covered. There is only one guest bed since the apartment is small. Thus, I had to disappear for the week of Claudia’s visit. Even before I did, Christine had the idea to visit Stratford-upon-Avon in that week. Brilliant! So here I am!
After a wonderful rainy Saturday afternoon, mostly spent at the National Gallery, I left Inga, Rubik and Leo shortly after 10:00 on Sunday morning and made my way to the High Mass at All Saints, a very high, Anglo-Catholic, Anglican Church, that our English Church Music Director at St. Catherine’s had recommended to me a couple of years ago when I asked him where I could got go in London. The service was impressive, almost pre-Vatican II Catholic. Lots of incense and singing. Outside in the courtyard at coffee following the service, I felt like I was in a time machine when I saw the Anglican clergy in black cassocks and wearing a zucchetto (skullcap). I am not accustomed to a service like that one. The name High Mass gave me a hint of what to expect. As strange in a good way as it was, I really enjoyed it. The strangeness, the otherness of the liturgy and the language underlines that what we are doing at that moment is not something every day, but special. It focusses my attention and concentration on something different, an intense feeling of the presence of God and our focused attention on him.
In any event, I didn’t stay for coffee where I could have spoken with the priests and a few people because I didn’t want to end up rushing to the train. A funny thing happened at the very beginning, though. The friendly woman who gave me the worship sheet asked me if I would like to put my suitcase and backpack aside where she was watching the door and I gladly took her up on her offer. I then took a seat in the back where I could clearly see the altar and my luggage. At some point I heard a buzzing, but thought nothing of it. Then the woman came to me and said that the noise was coming from my luggage! Embarrassing! I dashed over to check. It was my beard trimmer!! When I put the backpack down, the load shifted and something in my toilet kit hit the button to start the trimmer. Fortunately, this was all before the service had begun.
My train trip to Stratford was uneventful, except for having to change trains twice. I had left enough cushion so that I did not have to run or rush. I got to Stratford on time. The trip led me through some breathtakingly lovely countryside once we had left London. Of course, there were unattractive areas we passed, but the landscape outside of the towns was beautiful. One could recognize, however, that it was very windy.
I easily found my B&B. However, finding somewhere to eat proved more challenging. The first three places I went to had all already closed their kitchens! So early! It was just after 7:00 PM that I started looking. At the fourth place I got lucky. I did not stay there very long, since I was so tired. I did not stay up late, but still needed a while to go to sleep.
This morning I just had to go downstairs to a classic cooked breakfast. After chatting with a family on the way to the Lake District and finishing breakfast, I headed out into the rain to explore Stratford. Having borrowed an umbrella from the landlady, I spontaneously turned toward Holy Trinity Church and Shakespeare’s grave. The church did not open for another hour and I could not find the grave in the rain. (I later discovered that it is inside the church.) I ended up taking a walk along the Avon and passed by The Other Place where I saw a young Ian McKellen in a brilliant production of “Macbeth” in the Fall of 1976. To this day, that is the most amazing production I have ever seen. I still remember it well – and get chill bumps when I think of it! I stopped to make a photo, but there is nothing on this week, very disappointing.
Despite the rain, I enjoyed the walk down the Avon which ended at the Royal Shakespeare Theater. I dipped in to dodge the rain and check out the shop. I also got my tickets for “As You Like It” this evening. After leaving the shop, I wandered through the city in the rain and finally found The Shakespeare Bookshop. I am proud of myself that I only bought one book at the shop and nothing at the RSC shop. However, I do have a few ideas for little presents. The biggest temptation was the recordings of assorted excellent productions of the Bard’s plays. So far, I have resisted.
I ended up at Box & Brownie, a café the sales clerk at The Shakespeare Bookshop recommended. Here I have sat for over two hours, sending a couple of messages and writing this. I also ended up having a nice conversation with an English couple from Hartford, north of London, who are spending a couple of days here.
After winding this up, I want to get out and move around a bit – and try to read a bit in my new book!
Tuesday, 27 October 2026
After leaving the coffee shop yesterday – it closed at 3:00 PM – I wandered around in the general direction of the theater and finally decided to park myself at The Dirty Duck, a minute down the road from the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. I found a table in the Actors’ Bar, got half a pint and proceeded to read my new book, Jonathan Bate, Soul of the Age: The Life, Mind and World of William Shakespeare, until it was time to order a bite to eat before I headed to the theatre. I just loved the time there. Everyone left me alone. They all just drank and talked and ate. After finishing my steak pie, I headed for the theater a bit early and parked myself outside to do my Italian lesson for the day, so I would not have to after the theatre.
It was a magical evening. You could feel everyone’s anticipation and excitement in the lobby and on their way to the seats. I could scarcely contain my excitement. After 50 long years, I was FINALLY back at the RSC to watch Shakespeare. It was like being in a dream. I felt like I was in a daze. I cannot begin to describe the production, except to say that it was great. The stage was simple, at the beginning just a white floor and a very high white wall at the back through which the actors entered and retired. When the scene shifted to the Forest of Arden, it turned into green grass and high plants on four levels. The production concentrated on the artists, not the stage. Shakespeare’s language and actors’ and actresses’ skill carried to play. It was very demanding – and it was brilliant. An interesting idea was to have a man play Rosalind, as would have been the case in Shakespeare’s time. It irritated me at first, but was very well, excellently played. The time flew by. In spite of sitting in the very last row, I could see and hear everything quite well. When Rosalind finished her epilogue, we all stood, clapping and cheering.
I more or less floated out of the theater after picking up my coat and backpack. It was all so marvelous. Since it was only about 10:30, I spontaneously went back to The Dirty Duck. It was the closest pub to the theater and on the way back to my B&B. The Actors’ Bar is small, so there was no table unoccupied. I joined a young man sitting along at a high table next to the bar, after asking him, of course. He turned out to be Taha, a young doctor from Chicago whose family immigrated to the US from Pakistan when he was a small child. He was on his last evening before heading to Edinburgh for a couple of days. We had a marvelous conversation in which we exchanged our stories of origin, assorted experiences and how we had landed at The Dirty Duck that evening. Unfortunately, we got thrown out – as did the other guests – when it closed at 11:15! We both sadly observed that the pubs and restaurants close early in Stratford. Nothing like Chicago, he said. Stratford is apparently still provincial!
I rode a wave of emotions back to my B&B such that I felt like I was gliding, not walking. It was windy, so I leaned into the wind, stretched out my arms as if trying to fly until the wind shifted as I turned the corner. On the way home I passed The Other Place and drifted back to memories of seeing “Macbeth” there fifty years ago. I also saw a young Ian McKellen in “Romeo and Juliet” that fall. After the play a couple of classmates and I landed at The Dirty Duck. Standing at the bar, waiting to order, I recognized a voice behind me. It was Ian McKellen! I turned around and said, “Hello!” He was talking with one of his colleagues I suppose. In any event, I interrupted long enough to introduce myself and to thank him for a wonderful performance. He smiled and thanked me – and then returned to his conversation. I am sure that he does not remember this. He gets accosted by so many people, before and after performances. However, I shall never forget this moment.
Although I was tired, I could scarcely fall asleep. Even as I write this, I am reveling in the emotions from last night. It was truly a magical evening.
This morning I had tickets to Anne Hathaway’s Cottage. After quickly finishing my massive English Breakfast, I left for the walk to the cottage. It was a nice walk of about 1.5 km – most of it was on narrow paths between houses or across fields – and I was the first visitor when the doors were unlocked. I am trying hard to take my time here and not rush. I have five days! Consequently, I first wandered through the apple orchard before turning back toward the garden in front of the cottage. I wanted to take in every little bit of sensation and emotion I could. It was a beautiful morning, sunny not cool, not hot. Since the week is a school holiday in England, I have seen school age children and their parents in Stratford-upon-Avon. Nonetheless, most of the visitors are older. At the cottage, I saw two families, but otherwise I had the feeling that I was one of the younger guests! The cottage was very interesting. Tudors had a life very different from ours! That is obvious, of course. However, you get a different feel for it when you see how a well-situated farmer lived. The same goes for Shakespeare’s Birthplace, which I visited later.
I took the longer, somewhat indirect way to his birth house because most of it was a bit away from the main streets, i.e. no cars, just mud, leaves, fences, houses and trees. Back in the center of town, I caught my breath on a bench in front of the Shakespeare Center, the entrance to the house.
The way to the house led through displays of articles from Shakespeare’s times and illuminated his father’s profession as a glover. It entered into a marvelous garden. The house itself is interesting, but I did not get as excited as a lot of the other guests. I am not a fan of personal cults, so seeing something that young William may have used or slept in or where he had stood did not make me ecstatic like some of the other visitors. Still, I am glad that I toured the house.
For me the highlight came afterwards when two professional actors in the gardens behind the house, played the scene in “Macbeth” after Duncan’s murder when Macbeth returns to Lady Macbeth with the bloody daggers after having murdered Duncan. It ended with Macbeth’s soliloquy from which Faulkner took the title of his novel, The Sound and the Fury:
Life’s but a walking shadow, a poor player
That struts and frets his hour upon the stage
And then is heard no more. It is a tale
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury
Signifying nothing.
(Macbeth, Act V, Scene V, lines 24–28)
After “Macbeth” had stomped off, I hung around a moment, savoring the echo of his last words. I landed in my favorite coffee shop again. After the charming young owner threw me (and a couple of others) out again, I wandered down to the Avon, crossed over to the other side, parked myself opposite the Royal Shakespeare Theatre and read until the rain started again.
I walked to The Old Thatch Tavern for a pint and dinner. Breakfast is so massive that I skip lunch!
Tomorrow I have a tour of the Royal Shakespeare Theatre or Swan Theatre, depending upon what the RSC decides.
The adventure and the trip down memory lane continues!
Wednesday, 28 October 2026
When I walked into the theater to see “As You Like It” on Monday, the theater did not look as I remembered it. This morning at the Theatre Tour I learned why. It was not my poor memory. Rather The Royal Shakespeare Theater is a new theater built in 1986 and thoroughly renovated 2007-2011. The older theater in which I saw “Romeo and Juliet,” for example, was a proscenium arch theater like the Staatstheater in Stuttgart as was the new theater from 1986. Only after the transformation of the 2000’s was the new Royal Shakespeare Theater converted into a thrust theater in which the stage stretches into the audience and is surrounded by seats on three sides.
Shakespeare wrote his plays for a thrust theater like the Globe Theatre, whether the old one or the re-constructed Globe now in London. (According to our guide, there are still persons who show up at the Royal Shakespeare Theater in Stratford-upon-Avon with tickets for the Globe in London!)
The tour began with a quick review of the history of performing Shakespeare in Stratford-upon-Avon. Then the guide led us behind the stage of the Royal Shakespeare Theatre to the area where costumes are prepared for the evening’s or afternoon’s production. They are cleaned, ironed and disinfected after every performance. On our way to the theatre itself, we passed some dressing rooms, but not all. They are on two levels, and the changing rooms used during the production are much closer to the stage than where we were. We sat in the Upper Circle just below where I sat Monday evening for “As You Like It.”
After she had finished her story, we got to ask questions. I was somewhat confused because she had told us that the theater opened 1879 had burned in 1926, but I knew I had attended plays here in the fall of 1976. It turns out that I had seen Shakespeare in the new building, the New Shakespeare Memorial Theatre, that was re-named Royal Shakespeare Theatre in 1961 when the Royal Shakespeare Company was founded, but that was, as I said above, also a proscenium arch theater. The new thrust stage came later. Mystery resolved. The Other Place is still the same although the old tin hut has been bricked up by now. Nonetheless, it is the same building at the same place I saw “Macbeth” back in 1976.
When I asked the guide if The Other Place I have seen while here is the same building in which I saw “Macbeth,” I, inadvertently, cursed our group. An old superstition of the theater is never to mention the “M-word” in the theater itself. I had not known that! (I also learned that one traditionally does not wear green in the theater. It brings bad luck. Of course, you never wish an actor or actress “Good Luck!” You say, „Break a leg!” And that comes from the following: The heavy, high curtains in the back through which the performers enter are called “legs.” However, if you are unfortunate, the act before you in a variety theater where many theater groups also appeared, goes over his time and the owner says it is too late and you do not get to go out. If you don’t go out, you don’t get paid. To get paid you must “break the leg,” i.e. appear on stage. Thus the wish to a performer, “Break a leg!” It means you appeared on stage and will get paid!)
In any event, I apologized to the group. I hope nothing bad has happened to anyone! We were a small group, 11 people, including a young couple from London who stayed the night at my B&B. They are both teachers – and she teaches drama. As I learned when I bumped into them later this afternoon, he teaches physics. At the end of the tour the guide showed us wigs and explained how they are made (with human hair, the most expensive hair color is white!), stage blood and make up. Since it is almost Halloween, as the climax she showed us a very realistic decapitated head!
Following the tour, I spent a lot of time in the gift shop planning what to get for whom – and resisting buying more books. From there I went to the free exhibition The Play’s The Thing, with different costumes and information about the performances in which they were worn. The highlight was, however, the Holy Grail – an original First Folio! It is opened to “As You Like It” since that is on at the moment. I stood before it and stared at it for quite a while. It is not quite the same as the Gutenberg Bible, but for a Shakespeare fan it is truly something special.
I also went up the observation tower attached to the theater. I had a marvelous view of the countryside. Later the rain clouds came and dimmed the view. I had the good fortune to enjoy the view by sunshine. I checked out every nook and cranny of the theater that was open to the public, the bar, the reading room, the library, etc.
After finally leaving the theater, I sat outside on a bench and read for a little while until the drizzling started that turned into a light, but steady rain. I used the opportunity to buy a sandwich and some water before parking myself in the glassed-in bridge from the observation tower to the restaurant, buying an over-priced cappuccino to justify my presence. It also has a great view, is just not as high.
I have decided to honor The Windmill Inn with my presence this evening. I tried it my first evening here. Unfortunately, they had run out of food and shut down the kitchen about five minutes before I got there!
The rain clouds have gone away and the sun is shining again. I had forgotten how beautiful this area is. I was first reminded on my walk to Anne Hathaway’s Cottage on Tuesday. Significantly, Shakespeare lived in Stratford-upon-Avon. He owned a house here. His family, wife and children, were here. In London he lived in rented lodgings and returned home as often as he could. In a sense he remained a country boy, formed by and loving the area in which he grew. Unlike his Cambridge or Oxford trained rivals, he never settled in the city. In Soul of the Age Jonathan Bate points out how well-versed Shakespeare was in the plants and fauna of Warwickshire, in particular, and England, in general. He retained his connection with the land and area of his birth until his death.
In his plays the country is positively presented. He associates it with health, morals, good simple honest people and the like. The city or the court are a stark contrast: full of liars, thieves, amoral ambition, murder, death and illness, just to name a few negative things. Many of the plays oscillate between these two locations and their associated extremes.
I dare not compare myself with Shakespeare. Nonetheless, I understand. I have kidded about being a “country boy” and often said, “You can the boy out of the country, but you can’t take the country out of the boy.” Of course, there is a lot of teasing and role-playing in all of this, but truth as well, although I really did “leave North screaming” because I found the town and its people so limited and narrow-minded.
Nonetheless, I lived in North until I was almost 18 and it has formed me more than I long wanted to admit. I am not particularly sure how it formed me. Unlike Will, I did not learn much about flowers and plants: I successfully resisted my mother’s attempts to teach me! But the life at church, the everydayness of faith, its just being there, being part of everyday life has strongly influenced me. Surrounded by evangelicals and fundamentalists, not so many in North UMC when I was growing up, I never became one. Of course, North – the town, the churches, the people – was conservative, but it was also full of persons who were generous and would help you with no questions asked, give you the shirt off their backs although they did not have much themselves.
I also knew intelligent, well-read and educated persons, most of them women friends of my mother, who were conservative, but not dogmatic. One of them was our pastor when I was a teenager, a short, intellectual theologian, not a good preacher. No one could really understand him, but he was a good pastor who was there when he was needed. Ultimately, he was a bit of a misfit for North UMC. However, he recognized my gifts and encouraged me to think and ask questions. He personified for me the conviction that faith and intellectual rigor are not opposites, rather complement one another. (Lent one year he got up early every day to translate parts of the Septuaginta into English as a Lenten discipline before he started his day!)
To phrase it in another way, I grew up in a permission structure that allowed me to ask all sorts of questions and arrive at answers with which those around me disagreed. My poor mother and my poor father certainly groaned and were often disturbed by some of my answers. We heatedly debated them at the dinner table or in the “sun parlor.” (“Sun parlor” is what Mom called the den with the TV and where we all sat after and before meals when we were home – unless the boys retired to their rooms. I only did that to read or do homework. The only TV was in the “sun parlor.”). However, they never tried to force me to stop questioning and thinking, searching for my own answers.
To go Shakespeare, in their own way they never denied me permission to “feed myself with questioning,” echoing Hymen, the god of marriage in “As You Like It” (Act 5, Scene 4) as he advises the couples together at the end of the play: “Feed yourselves with questioning”, telling them to feed their minds with curiosity and inquiry so that reason can help them understand how they all met and how their story finishes.
I do not know how my story will finish. No one ever does. However, it has certainly developed in directions that neither my parents nor I have foreseen!
Thursday, 29 October 2026
A wonderful few days are coming to an end. This morning after breakfast I walked down to Holy Trinity Church, again. Unfortunately, it was still closed. It opened at 11:00, not 10:00 as I had thought. Since my tour of Shakespeare’s Schoolhouse started at 11:00, I walked behind the church and turned up the same path towards town that I had taken on Monday when I also arrived before opening time. I found a bench with a nice view of the Avon and read until it was time to leave for my last tour. I have spread my events over the four full days so I would not just drift through the day.
Once again, I arrived too early. Punctuality not being one of my virtues, I tend to arrive either late – or close to it – or early. In the last couple of years, arriving early has predominated, as is the case today. However, the others and I only had to wait a couple of minutes. The exciting part came when I had to find the email with my ticket. My screenshot was insufficient. After having found it, I joined the tour in progress and only missed about a minute. We got a general introduction to the building and its history before we went upstairs into the room where little Will actually had instruction. An actor playing the role of an Elizabethan school master gave us a feel for what it was like. School began at 6:00, 7:00 in the winter and went until 5:00 in the afternoon, only for the boys, of course. School was six days a week although Thursday and Saturday were half days. No vacations except religious holidays and a week in August (?) to help with the harvest. The schoolhouse itself is the original; built in the 1400’s, it is still standing and in use!
Instruction was learning by rote, assisted by the boy who sat across from you. If you survived – a third of the boys who started would die before their schooling had ended – you had a solid grounding in English and especially Latin and the corresponding literature. At the end, you would practice writing prose and poetry in Latin. A boy who passed the final year of grammar school had, according to Bate in Soul of the Age, a more solid command of Latin than contemporary undergraduates with a classics major. I certainly do not envy Will for the long school days and the rote memorization; nonetheless, I do wish I had such a command of Latin. In the last year the scholars got a smattering of Greek, but Greek was mostly learned at Oxford or Cambridge, not in grammar school. Of course, the noble boys all had private teachers.
In Elizabethan England the rigid class society was loosening up. Education provided a path upward, financially and socially, for smart, diligent sons of craftsmen like John Shakespeare. Unfortunately, John had financial problems, so Will did not attend the last year of school. And then he got an older woman pregnant, so he no longer could attend university. His father’s plan had been for Will to study law (as my father had hoped for me!). As we all know, Will had other plans. He had apparently been negatively influenced by the players from London on their tours through the country. These troupes often visited market towns like Stratford-upon-Avon.
At the end of the tour, I wandered back to Holy Trinity Church which was now open. I was surprised by its beauty. I had not expected that. I did not think it would be ugly, but the church is striking. I gladly paid the five pounds to go into the Chancel and see Shakespeare’s grave. He is buried between his wife and daughter in a row with his son-in-law. Hamnet, the other twin, is buried somewhere in the churchyard that surrounds the church. No one knows where. In the church yard to the left approaching the church, someone has recently planted a sapling with a small plaque in his memory, quoting his father: “He is dead and gone, lady. / He is dead and gone; / At his head a grass-green turf, / At his heels a stone.” (Hamlet, Act IV, Sc. 5) After leaving the church, I strolled back to the banks of the Avon and let the squirrels amuse me.
Seeing the playful grey squirrels threw me back to my childhood in North. Behind the house in which I lived until I was 14, squirrels, grey and red, ran through the high oak and pecan trees in the backyard. They chased one another through the limbs, down the trunk, across the yard, back up another tree and so on. I was forever fascinated that they never fell off a limb, even when they would leap from one limb to another. The Holy Trinity squirrels did not chase one another, perhaps too dignified; however, they diligently searched for acorns and nuts and did not let me disturb them. I have missed the squirrels in Germany. There are a few, but not many. Our yard was overrun with them – so overrun that my father often chased and cursed them because they stole the pecans he wanted to gather for us.
After we moved up the street to the larger house where my mom grew up, we also had pecan trees. Til the day he died, my father would meander through the backyard there, picking up pecans, stuffing them into his pants’ pockets – and cursing the squirrels. One of the highlights of visiting home from college or divinity school was getting the ziplock bags of shelled pecans that my father had saved for me. I love pecans – and cannot eat them without thinking of Pop. We were very different. I am sure he had hoped for another son, perhaps a lawyer! Nonetheless, after I had moved out and started my studies, paradoxically, we drew closer. I was finally able to see him with my own eyes and not through my mom’s. He did not talk a lot. He also did not get much opportunity! He showed his love; he did not talk about it.
One of those little gestures was to save some of the pecans for his son before his wife distributed them among her girlfriends, who did not all have so many pecan trees. Another one was the once-a-semester letter he wrote me. Suffering under the illusion I was spending all my time studying, once a semester he wrote me a one-page letter, only one sentence with lots of dashes, telling me what he had been doing (besides saving pecans from the pesky squirrels) and urging me to find a girl and go out and have some fun. To help me with that, he always enclosed a $20 bill. (Moreover, he had a marvelous handwriting! Unfortunately, I inherited my mom’s.) I looked forward to Pop’s letters! He was a quiet rock whom I long did not appreciate. Although he often did not understand me, he had my back – and I knew it. I was his child, and that was all that counted. I have tried to be the same kind of father for my children. In that, he is my role model, not my mom, who otherwise strongly influenced me with her love for books and reading, faith and intellectual curiosity.
In any event, I followed the Avon up to, behind and past the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. I sat on a bench a while watching the swans and other water fowl freak out as a boy fed them while I ate a bag of chips I had gotten with my meal deal the day before. I then read a while until it just got too cool. The weather is strange: not warm, but not cold. I can sit outside for a bit; however, slowly but surely, it gets too cool. (By the way, during my stay here I have discovered an almost surefire way to attract rain: sit on a bench and try to read. It is practically infallible – at least in Stratford-upon-Avon. The only day it did not work was today.)
I wandered off, trying to decide which pub I wanted to visit. I turned up Sheep Street, the main drag, so to speak, in the direction of The Old Thatched Tavern and then spontaneously ducked into The Fourteas Teahouse, a teahouse in the style of the 1940’s. (I didn’t get the pun in the name until I wrote this!) I got a bottomless pot of tea and chocolate fudge cake – and sat and wrote and read until well after 4:00 when they threw me out. Every time this has happened to me, the personnel has been so polite and apologetic, not at all like Stuttgart! As I packed my things, I had a nice conversation with a young man who works there on the side, having studied finance and now another real job. He will do a two-month long internship in Berlin next spring. We talked a bit about Berlin and his excitement until I paid my check and left.
Moseying through the town, I landed at a used bookstore – surprise! The biggest surprise is that I did not buy anything. I asked the elderly owner, i.e., older than I, whether he knew of an old B&B run by a Mrs. Bickerstaff. That is where I stayed 50 years ago. Unfortunately, he did not, so I said, “Thank you and Goodbye.” On my way to The Dirty Duck, I took a detour to the exhibition The Play’s The Thing to take a last look at the First Folio. Annoyingly, The Actors’ Bar is closed for a private event this evening, so I landed in the other, larger restaurant side.
My last evening in Stratford-upon-Avon is, of course, a bit melancholic, but not very. I am still reveling in my good fortune. Two weeks ago, I had no idea I would be here. Now, I can get around town without a map (or CityMapper). I truly feel at home here. Given the chance and the money, I would move here in an instant.
To be honest, I do not remember much about the town from my stay with Furman fifty years previous. I remember bits of theater, especially the production of “Macbeth” with Ian McKellen in The Other Place, and snippets from our classes as well as lunch in the pub across the street from the Shakespeare Institute, but that is all. It is much more the emotions that I feel, the associations with Shakespeare, his plays, his words.
I am also enjoying the pub culture. Everyone is friendly. No one is annoyed that I block a small table and sit, read and/or write. Nonetheless, it will be better for my health to return to Stuttgart where Christine will cook healthier meals than I have eaten here and ensure that I take better care of myself. I have slept well, but I have definitely not eaten healthily here!
It is has become even clearer to me here than it already was how strongly I am attached to the English language, my mother tongue. That explains, basically, my fascination with and, yes, love for Shakespeare – his incomparable mastery of the English language. Again and again, I find myself in his words and then lose myself in them again. This same applies to my love for William Faulkner’s works. His mastery of the English language, Southern American variant, is unmatched – and it resonates with what I heard as I was growing up. Mississippi is different from South Carolina. My old Mississippi friend from Vanderbilt, Richard, talks quite differently from me. And Shakespeare is even farther away, but his mastery and forming of the language I speak is unique. With Shakespeare and with Faulkner I ride on the wave of the language to wonderful, magical places. Hearing the words masterfully spoken and played in the theater in the case of Shakespeare intensifies that experience.
As my time in Stratford-upon-Avon winds down, I am extraordinarily grateful for the opportunity to return after 50 years. My only regret is that I was only able to see one performance of a play by Shakespeare. That is a reason to come again – but sooner than another 50 years!
Friday, 30 October 2026
I am in the train from Stratford-upon-Avon to Leamington Spa on my way to Canterbury with its magnificent cathedral, waiting for it to depart. I left my B&B shortly before 11:00. The chat with my landlady, who is apparently Russian, took a few minutes. Mostly we talked about cats. She has two Maine Coons who roam around the house and love to be spoiled by the guests. I decided to go straight to the train station and bypass the town. For one thing, I was afraid I may lose track of time and have to rush or, even worse, much worse, miss the train. For another, I did not want to cloud my pleasant memories of the past five days.
I spent my last evening at The Dirty Duck. Altogether I was there over five hours! I ordered my first pale ale shortly after 4:30. I had to wait about 10-15 minutes for a small table to clear, then spent the late afternoon and evening drinking, reflecting, writing, observing the guests, eating and drinking. I reviewed what I had written, especially the beginning, and polished the rest. I tried to read, but it was too dark – and the people were too entertaining. I believe that I outlasted two complete shifts of guests.
I believe you get a better idea of what England is or a feel for it outside of the cities. One point is that the cities, especially London, were severely damaged in the last war. The smaller towns like Stratford-upon-Avon were so unimportant that the Luftwaffe did not bother. I think this observation also applies to Germany – and South Carolina. Cities attract more people and that makes it more likely that “foreigners” land there than in rural areas or small towns. Consequently, you can get a better idea of what a country or area is like, originally like, when you seek out the rural areas and their small towns. This is a banal observation, nothing new to the sociologists. Nonetheless, it has first strongly impressed itself upon my mind during these days in Stratford.
The bad side this is the negative provincialism. There is nothing wrong in loving and valuing where you grew up, its customs, its morals, its landscape. It becomes problematic – and toxic – when you universalize them and are intolerant to anything, any person, any thought that does not correspond to local mores.
It does not follow that if one is born and grows up in the country or small towns one necessarily remains bound to this perspective. There are numerous examples of individuals who have grown beyond this. Shakespeare is one. I, on a very different, much lower level, am another.
I have often wondered why so many of my classmates remain bound to this narrow world-view. It is not that they do not or cannot see anything it. When I was growing up, TV was already everywhere. Practically every family had a TV. We had a window into other worlds. You did not have to read. You only had to watch. I am not talking about rejecting it all. I am talking about expanding it, learning, growing, incorporating different insights.
My guess is that it threatens them, probably in ways that they do not understand themselves. Otherness unsettles them, be it ideas other than theirs, experiences other than theirs, persons who look and talk other than they do. This is at a deep, visceral level that they do not realize. I think here about how the racist air in which I grew up has affected my spontaneous, unreflected, gut reactions in certain situations. I feel, I want spontaneously to react differently from what I want, what my values tell me is right.
Another factor for many is a very conservative, perhaps fundamentalist theology that rejects anything that cannot be found in the Bible. This book, which is also central to my Christian faith, is the source of all knowledge, all wisdom, so that anything, truly anything that does not correspond to what is found there is rejected. It is not merely wrong. This other idea or lifestyle or experience or whatever is diabolical, evil, literally from the Devil. You must reject it, not analyze it, think about it or consider and argue with it. You must reject it.
In this mode empathy also becomes dangerous. When you are empathetic, feel the hurt or even the sincerity of someone who is different from you, thinks or believes different from you, you put down the armor that protects you. It threatens to break through your isolation and make you uncomfortable. This powers so much of the frenzy and hate of MAGAworld.
This phenomenon explains how so many people I know from home who, although very conservative, for the most part, are decent, caring, often sincerely devout people could become committed Trump supporters.
And here I shall close, so I can enjoy the wonderful fall weather through the window of the train.


